I’m a wine lover. I’ve even designed a course to teach about Europe and the European Union using a series of case studies that center on wine.

So I was surprised to read an article, “Is France Losing the War of the Rosés?”, that ran the other day in The New York Times. Yikes! There’s a war going on, here in France –where I make my home– and I’d heard nothing of it.

I looked over the French press, and I didn’t like what I saw. One article (entitled  “Rosé Producers See Red”) quoted François Millo, the head of a Provençal trade group, the Conseil interprofessionnel des vins de Provence.  Millo reported that jobs were in jeopardy, and that a decision by “Brussels” would lead to “counterfeit” wine that would erode consumer confidence.

The thought of counterfeit wine and jobless winemakers pushed to me ask questions. I went to the head of the AREV (the Assembly of European Wine Regions, a trade association dealing with wine on a European level). The AREV is fully informed on the situation and takes an alarmist view of the situation. It has posted an open letter to European Commissioner Marianne Fischer Boel (pictured below), who’s responsible for agricultural matters.

rose

The crux of the problem: rosé wine has traditionally been made by maceration or draining or pressing, using grapes that can produce red wine. The European Union has issued a new regulation that allows blending, the mixture of white wine with red wine. Blending is allowed outside Europe, but has been off-limits for much European rosé winemaking.

The European Commission takes a reassuring posture. The excitement stems from new regula tions on various wine subjects, including labeling requirements. (The text of the regulation is soporific, and an excellent argument in itself for a cogent “citizens’ summary” to accompany each new regulation or directive.)

In a press release (that’s actually legible), the European Commission explains what’s intended. When communicating with the general public, the Commission takes a reassuring tone. It points out:

  • a distinction between table wine (where blending has been forbidden) and appellation wine (where blending has been permitted, for example in the case of champagne);
  • the International Organisation of Vine & Wine (OIV) permits blending in the making of rosé wines. By aligning EU producers with OIV policies, the Commission argues, EU producers will be able to gain traction in export markets;
  • The scheme includes the possible (optional?) mention of “traditional rosé” or “rosé by blending” on labels, leaving producers and consumers with a choice.

After some investigation, I have the uncomfortable feeling of having encountered a mystery wrapped in an enigma. How much of the alarm has been coming from table wine producers? What do appellation wine producers say? In the future, will an appellation rosé (an Anjou or a Sancerre, for example), be made by blending or not? Being appellation wines, have they been made by blending in the past? And do New World wine drinkers know or care about winemaking methods when buying wine; in other words, will the change in EU rules really help the standing of EU producers?

There don’t seem to be easy answers to these questions (or the dozens more that I have, mostly on technical winemaking and trade points). I would fault both the wine industry and the European Commission for lackluster communications efforts. Surely both can do a better job. European wine drinkers deserve it.

[ADDENDUM: The European Commission subsequently reversed course and abandoned the new rules. I posted on this reversal on 9 June.]